Guide to Bowhunting Deer

Man has used bows and arrows to hunt for food since the Stone Age. Archaeologists estimate that primitive man began hunting game with crude bows and wooden shafted arrows tipped with sharpened stone points as early 10,000 BC. The shortcomings of their equipment were offset by their remarkable ability to stalk quarry within close range without being detected. Not surprisingly, Native Americans were among the most skilled early bowhunters. Although equipment and methods have changed dramatically, the challenge of stealthily approaching a game animal without it being spooked remains at the heart of bowhunting to this day.

Why Some Hunters Prefer Using a Bow Rather than a Rifle

Today’s hunters have a vast assortment of high-powered, extremely accurate long range hunting rifles and precision optics at their disposal, so why do many of them continue to prefer hunting game with bows and arrows? One reason is the skill and patience needed to get within shooting distance of a game animal without frightening it. Coming within 20 yards or less of a deer and bringing it down with a single, well-placed arrow requires far more skill than shooting an animal with a scoped, high-powered rifle from a distance of 200 yards or more. Other reasons cited for hunting with bows rather than rifles include tradition, earlier and longer hunting seasons, and the sheer enjoyment of hunting using the same methods as our ancestors. Regardless of the reason, bowhunting continues to grow in popularity throughout America.

Differences between Bowhunting and Rifle Hunting

Proficiency in bowhunting requires far more patience and practice than hunting with a rifle. With proper instruction, basic firearm safety and marksmanship can be acquired in a relatively short period of time, whereas mastering archery takes many years of practice. Other differences between the two hunting methods include:

• Shooting Distance. Deer taken with a bow are shot at distances within 40 yards, and usually far less. Rifle hunters are capable of easily taking game at ranges of 200 yards and beyond.
• Hunting Seasons. Seasons for bowhunting deer typically begin earlier and run later than rifle hunting, and in some areas last for months. Bow season typically opens up a month earlier than rifle season giving bow hunters first dibs to take down a prized buck.

• Wounding and Killing. When struck by a bullet, a deer will usually die quickly. Deer, however, almost never drop immediately unless you strike them directly in the kill zone with an arrow, and are still capable of running long distances after being struck. A deer hunter needs to follow the blood trail until the downed animal is located or there’s an opportunity for a second shot. Failure of a hunter to use every effort to find a wounded deer is cruel and unsportsmanlike.
• Equipment. The basics for rifle hunters are the rifle itself, which is usually equipped with a telescopic sight, some ammunition, a knife for field dressing game and proper clothing. The bowhunter’s equipment checklist, however, is much longer. In addition to a bow and some arrows, other items he or she will need include a quiver, bow sight, camouflage clothing, arrow rest, stabilizer with a silencer, bow release and more.

Becoming a Proficient Bowhunter                                                     

As with any endeavor, the basics for success are proper equipment, training and lots of practice. More than becoming an expert archer, however, a bowhunter also needs to be equal parts scout and tracker.

A few months before deer season opens, an experienced bowhunter will scout the hunting ground for areas where deer are active to set up tree stands or ground blinds. Low-lying areas, brush or tree-lined fencerows, creek crossings and logging roads or firebreaks are all locations that funnel game. If you’re considering hunting areas with field crops, check them out after the harvest. The absence of food and cover can cause deer to quickly change habits and traffic patterns. Other promising areas include thickets on hillsides or ridges or the edges of dark stands of timber. Since deer may alter their migratory patterns if they detect changes in their surroundings, flexibility is important. It’s almost imperative to have one or more alternate stands or blinds available.

Some bowhunters prefer to track their quarry on foot rather than wait for deer to approach their camouflaged tree stands or ground blinds. Wet or dry weather, brush or bare ground, seasoned trackers are able to follow game over all types of terrain under practically any condition. Unless you’re a tracker with years of experience, however, snow on the ground is almost always necessary for successful tracking. About 6 inches of fresh or gently falling snow is ideal, since tracks will be fresh and the snow will soften your footsteps. Hoofprints tell the hunter whether it’s a buck or a doe being tracked, the size of the animal and the speed at which it’s moving. It’s important that the hunter follow at roughly the same speed as the quarry, slowing down when closing in on the deer and hopefully approaching to within shooting distance without it being spooked.

Gear for Bowhunting Deer

A well-prepared bowhunter has an extensive equipment list. Here are the essentials:

• Bow. Bows come in various types, which include the longbow, recurve bow, compound bow, compound crossbow and recurve crossbow. More about each of these later.
• Arrows. As with hunting bows, there are several choices in hunting arrows, shafts, fletchings and points. We’ll be discussing various arrow types in another section below.
• Camouflage. Camo clothing and accessories break up the hunter’s silhouette and help conceal him or her by blending into the immediate surroundings, which is essential for a successful hunt. Camouflage nettings are also used to help conceal the hunter’s tree stands and ground blinds.
• Face Mask and Gloves. A bowhunter needs to be as close to totally concealed as possible to help prevent being spotted by and spooking the deer. Black or camouflage face masks and gloves belong in every bowhunter’s gear bag.
• Treestand. Treestands are strategically located elevated platforms used to conceal hunters and give them a better vantage point for monitoring game trails below. Treestands come in both open and closed platform versions.
• Ground Blind. Similar in purpose to a treestand, a ground blind is a lightweight, portable structure used to conceal a hunter at ground level. Made of fabric, ground blinds have windows for viewing the surrounding area and taking a shot when a target presents itself. Ground blinds also offer the hunter some degree of protection against wind and inclement weather.
• Pole Saw. Bowhunters carry pole saws for clearing branches and foliage to create open shooting lanes for hunting from a treestand. Pruning to clear lanes is best if done before the day of the hunt to avoid a deer approaching the lane and picking up the scent left behind by the hunter during trimming. Care should be taken to avoid overtrimming, which could result in deer changing their travel patterns due to a change in the environment.
• Hand Saw or Pruners. Carrying a small saw or good set of pruners in your backpack is a good idea. Even after clearing a shooting lane or access path with a pole saw, there are inevitably saplings or small branches that still need to be removed.
• Deer Attractant. Hunters use deer attractant to entice game to approach their treestands or ground blinds. In addition to natural attractants made from acorns, apples or corn and similar foods, there are several commercially made deer attractants on the market. Hinterland Outfitters carries a full line of artificial deer attractants for sale online.
• Scrape Activator. Male deer scrape trees and branches in early fall to remove the velvet that grew on their antlers over the summer. Scraping leaves the buck’s scent and serves to mark its territory, and is also believed to be a means for a buck to attract doe during the rut. Adding a commercial scrape activator containing doe estrus and urine to the scrape will keep it attracting bucks for a month or more.
• Release Aid. A release aid is a mechanical device that uses a trigger rather than the shooter’s fingers to release the string for smoother and more accurate arrow launches. Attached to a bowstring just below the nocking point, release aids work with compound, recurve and longbows.
• Arrow Rest. An arrow rest is a shelf used to hold the arrow in place until the archer is ready to fire. An arrow rest can be either a part of the bow itself or a separate attachment. One of the more popular arrow rest types is the “whisker biscuit,” which encircles the arrow’s shaft in soft bristles that let the arrow’s shaft and fletching pass through unobstructed when launched. Another rest type is the drop-away, which is attached to the bow’s riser by a short cord that drops out of the way at launch and lets the arrow fly without its flight path being affected.
• Bow Sights. A bow sight is an aiming device attached to the bow’s riser. The most common is a fixed pin sight, which has 3 to 5 pins within a sighting circle pre-set for known distances. Fixed pin sights are easy to use and help with shot accuracy.
• Small Tool Set. Having access to basic tools can be invaluable for adjusting equipment and making repairs in the field. A typical bowhunter’s tool set should include small Allen wrenches for tightening components and making slight adjustments, an archer’s multi-tool with needle-nose pliers, a string spreader, nock crimp and fletching stripper. It’s a good idea to include a small vise for holding the bow while making adjustments or repairs. It’s also a good idea to include a small roll of duct tape.
• Binoculars. Binoculars can help to spot deer in stands of timber or thick brush that might otherwise be invisible to the naked eye. Although somewhat heavier, binoculars with wider fields of view will let in more light, making them particularly useful in early morning and late afternoon hunting. A pair of lightweight, compact 8×42 binoculars with coated, fog-proof lenses are a good choice to bring on a bowhunt.
• Utility Rope. Most tree stands already have a utility rope attached that’s used for hauling the hunter’s bow and gear up and onto the treestand platform, but it never hurts to have a 25- or 30-foot spare.
• Scent Elimination Spray and Field Wipes. Game animals associate the scent of humans with danger. There are commercial scent-eliminating sprays available that help eliminate human odor, such as Wildlife Research’s Scent Killer. It’s a good idea to bring along a scent elimination spray and a pack of field wipes for occasionally spraying clothing and wiping down exposed body areas and equipment during the day. Scent elimination sprays aren’t 100% effective, so it’s important to also consider wind direction to help control human odor.
• Trail Markers and Flagging Tape. When hunting unfamiliar terrain, it’s easy to lose direction and become lost. By attaching small, reflective trail markers or a strip of non-adhesive, biodegradable tape every several yards, bowhunters can easily retrace their steps, even in low light or dark conditions.
• Sharp Knife. A sharp fixed or folding blade knife is an essential piece of every bowhunter’s equipment. Used for field dressing and skinning game or humanely terminating a wounded animal, it’s a good idea to also include a small whetstone or other sharpening system.
• Field Dressing Gloves. Having a supply of shoulder-length, latex or polyester field dressing gloves makes the chore of gutting a deer simpler and safer, since they make the task less messy, prevent stained clothing and protect against infectious diseases.
• Lightweight Rain Gear. It’s always wise to include a lightweight vinyl rain suit or poncho to protect against changes in the weather and ease the discomfort of wind, rain and snow.
• First Aid Kit. Another essential but easily overlooked piece of equipment is a small first aid kit to deal with accidents in the field, such as a knife cut, cuts or scrapes from a fall, blisters and splinters. The basics should include antiseptic cream, bandaging and pain relievers.

Choosing a Deer Hunting Bow

The basic hunting bow types are the longbow, recurve bow, compound bow, compound crossbow and recurve crossbow. Each has its own advantages and disadvantages:

Longbows

The longbow is a direct descendant of bows used by prehistoric man. Made from wood, they’re roughly six feet in length, making them cumbersome to carry and shoot in stands of wood or from platforms. Longbows are less accurate than today’s modern hunting bows, and although they can shoot an arrow 250 yards or more at150 fps (feet per second), their effective range is about 20 yards. Longbow parts consist of the riser, limbs and bowstring, so they’re easy to set up and there’s less that can go wrong mechanically. Today’s longbows typically have draw weights of 40 to 60 lbs.

Recurve Bows

Recurve bows are less expensive, less complicated and easier to maintain than longbows. Shorter than a longbow, a recurve bow is easier to maneuver in the field or on a platform. A recurve stores and delivers energy in the limbs more efficiently than a longbow, which gives it a higher arrow travel speed and increased stopping power. At a draw rate between 40 and 55 lbs., recurve bows can launch arrows at speeds between 190 and 210 fps, depending on the limb type, bowstring, riser and arrow type and weight. Recurve bows, however, generally have less stopping power than a longbow, and take more practice and skill for the hunter to become proficient.

Compound Bows

Compound bows are the most accurate, powerful and easiest to use of all bow types, due largely to the system of pulleys, cables and mechanical cams attached to the limbs. An advantage of hunting with a compound bow rather than a longbow or recurve is that it takes less effort to draw back and hold the bowstring while aiming. Lightweight and quiet, some compound bows can launch arrows at speeds exceeding 350 fps. Compound bows also usually deliver cleaner kills, decreasing the chance of mortally wounding an animal that escapes into the bush before the hunter can put it down. The average cost of a compound bow is higher than other bow types, and the number of moving parts make it susceptible to mechanical breakdowns.

Recurve Crossbows

Lightweight and maneuverable, recurve crossbows are basically shortened recurve bows mounted on a handle platform with locks and trigger mechanisms. Made from carbon fiber, aluminum, magnesium alloy or wood, today’s recurve crossbows are powerful. A 300 fps crossbow is effective at 60 yards or more, although some accuracy is sacrificed at that range, so most experienced crossbow hunters prefer taking shots within 35 yards.

Larger and more powerful than compound crossbows, a recurve also has a longer bow and draw length. The longer draw length makes a recurve crossbow noisier than a compound crossbow when fired, which is a negative when hunting. Another drawback of the longer draw length is the excessive strain that’s placed on the bowstring, which can mean stopping to replace strings more often.

Compound Crossbows

A compound crossbow combines the best features of recurves, longbows and compound bows. The result is an extremely accurate and powerful weapon. A compound crossbow requires less draw weight to attain the same fps arrow speed than an equivalent recurve crossbow. Having grown in popularity over the past several years, compound crossbows are available in models with a wide range of draw weights, and are capable of launching arrows at speeds of up to 440 fps. A good example of a compound crossbow is the Barnett Buck Commander, which is among the crossbows Hinterland Outfitters offers for sale online.

Perhaps the biggest disadvantage of a compound crossbow is its complexity. More moving parts mean the greater the chances for mechanical failure of one or more of the components.

Hunting Bows for Beginners

Being the easiest to operate, a compound bow is probably the best choice for a beginner. The bow needs to fit the shooter properly, so when choosing a bow for a beginner, look for models with wide ranges of easy-to-make adjustments, since it may take several rounds of modifications to attain a proper fit. This is especially true for younger shooters whose draw lengths and draw weights will gradually change as they grow. Keep in mind that the faster a bow shoots, the more difficult it will be to draw, so look for a bow with an International Bowhunting Organization (IBO) speed of less than 330 fps, which is more than sufficient for bringing down deer and other big game.

Other features to look for include:

• Draw weight adjustment 40 – 60 lbs. or lower
• Axle to Axle (ATA) length Less than 33 feet
• Bow weight Under 4.3 lbs.
• Bow length Less than 35 inches

As with most things, budget should be taken into consideration. You’ll probably want to trade in your first bow after a season or two, so keep enough in reserve for upgrading.

Bowhunting Regulations

Before buying a bow, become familiar with state and local bowhunting regulations. In addition to requiring a license, some states, such as Alaska and Connecticut, require bows used for hunting have a minimum pull weight of 40 lbs. Others, including Florida and Delaware, prohibit bows with pull weights under 35 lbs. Montana prohibits hunting with bows less than 28” in length, and Wisconsin requires separate licenses for conventional bows and crossbows. New Hampshire requires that hunters’ names and addresses to appear on their arrows. Various other states restrict the type, length and weight of arrows and broadheads and prohibit telescopic sights. Regulations vary widely from state to state, so check thoroughly for restrictions in your area before committing to a purchase.

Arrows and Broadheads

Arrows can be expensive, and especially so for beginners, who will probably lose several during the learning period. Carbon arrows are a good choice for beginners, since they’re stronger, faster, quieter and usually cheaper than aluminum shaft arrows. It’s also important to select arrows with the right length and spine stiffness for the bow’s draw weight. Properly matched arrows lead to improved accuracy and hunting success.

The proper arrow length depends on several factors, including the type of bow, the bow’s draw length  and the position of the bow’s arrow rest. An arrow needs to extend at least 1” beyond the arrow rest when the bow is fully drawn. An arrow that’s a little too long is better than an arrow that’s slightly too short, since too short an arrow can lodge behind the arrow rest when fully drawn, potentially causing it to buckle and snap when released, sending carbon shards into the shooter’s body. Arrows that are too long decrease the arrow’s speed and negatively affect the bow’s performance. An arrow’s length also affects its spine, or stiffness, which is the degree to which the shaft resists bending while in flight. The longer the arrow, the less “stiff” and more limber it will be when fired, which negatively affects the flight path and accuracy. Conversely, shorter arrows perform more stiffly and are more stable in flight. The “perfect” arrow is an ideal balance between the two.

Broadheads

Broadheads are pointed, sharp cutting assemblies with two or more razor sharp blades attached to the tips of hunting arrow shafts. The two primary broadhead categories are fixed blade and mechanical blade, both of which kill by striking and cutting through vital tissues and organs.

The two major fixed blade broadhead types are one-piece broadheads and replaceable broadheads. One piece broadheads need to be sharpened from time to time, whereas fixed blade broadheads with replaceable blades can be quickly and easily changed when the edges become dull. Although they’re aerodynamically slower than mechanical broadheads, bowhunters with low bow draw weights and slower shooting speeds typically prefer fixed blade broadheads, since their deep penetration capabilities increase the chances of fast, clean kills.

Mechanical broadheads are available in a wide selection of blade sizes and configurations. They’re more accurate than their fixed blade counterparts, although they lack somewhat in reliability and penetration. The two primary styles of mechanical broadheads are front deploying, or “over the top,” and rear deploying. Front deploying broadheads are hinged at the rear and pivot outward from the front upon impact, causing the blades to open inside the animal and cut through vital tissue and organs. The blades of rear deploying broadheads pivot from the front and fully deploy upon impact before reaching and slicing through the vital organs. Rear deploying broadheads leave clean, large holes from which blood flows to form a blood trail for the hunter to follow.

The most important consideration in choosing between fixed blade and mechanical broadheads is which most closely approximates the flight characteristics of the field point arrows the hunter uses for practice.

Release Aids

A release aid is a mechanical device that helps archers shoot more quickly and accurately by using a trigger system rather than fingers to release the bowstring. The two primary considerations in selecting a release aid are safety and comfort, since an aid that pinches or strains the fingertips can be uncomfortable to use and may discourage a novice archer. The safest type of aid requires a conscious effort to open, and closes automatically when released. Here are three of the more popular release aid types:

• Index finger release: Attached to a wrist strap, this type of release has moveable jaws that encircle the bowstring. Pulling back on the trigger with the index finger releases the string and lets the arrow fly. Since it’s attached to the wrist, it’s impossible to lose in the field.
• Thumb trigger release: This is the release aid preferred by many experienced hunters. Either held loose in the hand or attached to a wrist strap, thumb releases are connected to the bowstring by caliper style jaws, a string loop or an open hook. Pushing the trigger or release button downward with the thumb launches the arrow.
• Hinge release: Also called a back tension release, this handheld device’s pivoting head is connected to the bowstring or loop by a hook. Lacking a trigger, the shooter activates the release by squeezing his or her shoulders together, causing the bow hand and the trigger hand to be pulled further apart. Squeezing the shoulder blades rotates the pivoting release until it ultimately releases the string. Many hunters prefer the hinge release because it reduces pre-firing anxiety, since it’s not known exactly when the arrow will be launched.

Hanging a Treestand

The basic gear needed to properly hang a treestand include the following:

• Safety Harness. Since a treestand will be 20’ to 30’ above the ground, wearing a safety harness is absolutely necessary. A full-body harness tethered to the tree or a safety line can prevent a serious or even fatal fall.
• Lineman’s Belt. Using a lineman’s belt, which is attached to the safety harness by 2 D-rings, makes climbing or descending a tree much easier. The hunter is supported by leaning back against the lineman’s belt, leaving both hands free to install the treestand.
• Pruning Sheer and Saw. These are used to clear small branches from the area where the treestand.is to be installed.
• Trail Markers. Trail markers are used to mark pathways to and from the treestand, and can be a great help in low light conditions such as before sunrise and after sunset. Markers placed at fixed intervals from the treestand are also used to help the hunter judge distances when preparing for a shot.
• Bow Rope. The bow rope is used to haul the treestand to the top of the steps for assembly. Once the treestand is assembled, the bow rope is used to bring the hunter’s bow and other gear from the ground up and onto the platform.

Hanging a treestand starts with connecting the step sections. After all steps have been connected and are lying flat on the ground, a safety strap is attached to each section. When all safety straps have been connected, place the sections against the tree, wrap the lower section’s strap around the trunk and connect it to the ladder’s opposite side. After tightening the safety strap, begin securing the remaining sections. When sections can no longer be reached, put on the lineman’s belt, lean back and walk up the tree. Repeat this process until all step sections have been secured and climb down. Attach a bow rope to the front of the treestand, tie the other end of the rope to the lineman’s belt and reclimb the ladder. When the top is reached, pull the treestand up with the rope. Attach the stand to the tree using the hanging mechanism supplied with the treestand, untie the bow rope from the lineman’s belt and let it drop while still connected to the stand. Climb down and disconnect the lineman’s belt.

The next step is choosing and clearing shooting lanes with the pole saw and pruning shears. Be careful not to over-trim at risk of making it obvious to deer that their space has been intruded. After the lanes have been cleared, attach the hunting bow and other gear to the rope hanging from the treestand’s platform, climb back up and retrieve the bow.

Treestand placement is different for morning and evening hunts. Try to avoid hunting near food sources in the morning, since deer often feed at night. Preferred stand locations for early morning hunts are near bedding areas, since deer tend to bed down and sleep during the day. Conversely, stands for evening hunts will be more effective if located near crop fields or other feeding grounds. Regardless of whether it’s a morning or evening hunt, try to be in your stand at least an hour early so as not to spook a deer in transit that’s either getting ready to bed down for the night or on its way to a feeding area in late afternoon.

Hunting From a Ground Blind

Hunting from a ground blind can be productive even when trees suitable for treestands are available. Ground blinds work well in situations where deer regularly feed in the same area, but approach it from varying directions. Most ground blind’s window configurations allow shooting from all sides, giving the hunter an advantage regardless of the direction from which the deer approach the feeding ground.

Another situation where hunting from a ground blind often produces results is when hunting in areas sheltered from the wind, such as creek crossings and ditches, and similar funnels where game travel. Because of ground swirling winds that obstruct the field of vision, these areas are difficult to hunt from treestand, making a ground blind the better choice.

Scouting for Deer

Immediately following the season’s close or in early spring are ideal times to scout for deer. Deer will have forgotten the presence of hunters by the time the next season opens, which leaves plenty of time for the hunter to develop a strategy.

Deer Scouting Terminology

As you become more familiar with the physical tools required for bowhunting, you also need to study deer behavior as well. Whether you’re hunting alone or with a group, you’ll hear these terms used in many bowhunting guides.

• Buck Sign and Doe Sign: These are means of differentiating between bucks and does by reading the distinctly different signs made or left by each.
• Bedding Areas: Bucks and does rarely sleep in the same areas. Bucks usually have 3 or more bedding areas which they use under varying conditions at different times of the year.
• Transition Routes: These are the paths taken by deer when traveling to or from bedding and feeding areas.
• Pinch Point: Pinch points are narrow bottlenecks on game trails or funnels through which game passes while in transit.
• Trail Hubs: Trail hubs are intersections where two or more heavily traveled game trails converge.
• Rub Lines: A buck rubs against trees to delineate its territory. Several rubs in a line indicate this is a path the buck frequently travels to or from feeding or bedding areas.
• Scrapes: Scrapes are areas where one or more deer have pawed the ground, urinated and deposited their scent on an overhead branch. More than territory markings, leaving their scent is a means of communication that lets other deer know their age, health and status within the herd.

Things to look for when scouting an area for the coming season include scrapes, rubs, hoof prints, droppings and similar signs of deer activity. Other considerations are proximity to water and food sources, including crop fields, sage flats, leafy tree buds, acorn-bearing oak trees and new vegetation. Look for funnels, which are natural or man-made changes in terrain or objects that channel deer through specific locations, such as fence rows, stream crossings, ridge saddles, valleys or strands of heavy cover that cross open areas. Funnels and pinch points make excellent locations for bowhunting throughout the season, and particularly during the rut. A day or two spent scouting in the spring can mean the difference between a productive hunting season and an empty freezer.

Find Your Bowhunting Tools via Hinterland Outfitters

Whether you’ve bowhunted deer for years or are just getting started in this exciting sport, you’ll find everything you need at Hinterland Outfitters. We have extensive selections of bows, arrows and accessories for bowhunting deer at prices to fit every budget. Call Hinterland Outfitters at 877-446-8370 or email us at info@blog.hinterlandoutfitters.com. One of our knowledgeable bowhunting specialists will be pleased to answer your questions and help you choose the right equipment.